Ilê Aiyê & Carnival 2023 in Salvador, Bahia

Since the pandemic lifted in Brazil, I have had the wonderful opportunity to see the famous Afro Brazilian band Ilê Aiyê perform live twice. Once, in a community concert sponsored by the State of Bahia for public at the cost R$1.  The significance? At the end of the pandemic the prices of many things, food, utilities, gasoline, basic needs skyrocketed. Ilê Aiyê founded in the Afro Brazilian community wanted to ensure anyone from the community could afford to attend. 

In this post I will give you a taste of how powerful and moving these performances were for me through my pictures, videos and my poetry. I also included the band`s history and music for you to hear. May I present, Ilê Aiyê. 

The History & Social Impact 

`Ilê Aiyê is a carnival block from Salvador, Bahia, Brazil. It is located in the Curuzu/Liberdade neighborhood, the largest afro-descendent population area of Salvador. The name stems from the Yoruba language: Ilé - home; Ayé - life; which can be loosely translated as 'earth'. It was founded in 1974 by Antônio Carlos “Vovô” and Apolônio de Jesus, making it the oldest Afro-Brazilian block.

Ilê Aiyê works to raise the consciousness of the Bahian black community. Persecuted by the police and the media during its first years, and still controversial for only allowing blacks to parade with the group, Ilê Aiyê is a renowned element of Bahia’s carnival. The group pioneered the type of carnival group known as the bloco afro, featuring themes from global black cultures and history, and celebrating the aesthetic beauty of black people. All other Afro-Brazilian blocos borrow elements originally created by Ilê Aiyê, including such groups founded shortly afterwards, such as Olodum and Malê Debalê.[2][3]` -Wikipedia 

Here is a sample of the song Cerca de Bakel teaches African history, lyrics translated from Portugues.  

Cerca de Bakel

De religião mulçumana

Os ibero-mouros, primitivamente

Contaram com defesas

Dos Tirailleurs, negros resistentes

Nas margens do Nilo surgiu a dinastia Guilleuar

Dialeto wolof, tendo como capital Dakar

E o reino

Reino de Tekrour ocidental

Cerca de Bakel, ilê, Senegal

Of Muslim religion

The Ibero-Moors, originally

They counted on defenses

Of the Tirailleurs, tough blacks

On the banks of the Nile came the Guilleuar dynasty

Wolof dialect, capitaled on Dakar

And the kingdom

Kingdom of Western Tekrour

About Bakel, Ilê, Senegal

`During Bahian carnival, the group includes hundreds of musicians, dozens of dancers, and thousands of members. They traditionally begin their procession on the Saturday night of Carnaval at the home of the Dos Santos family, where for many years Mãe Hilda de Jitolu, the mother of co-founder Vovô, presided as spiritual mother to the group and formal leader of a candomblé. As Ilê Aiyê passes, carnival crowds sing along by the thousands to songs about the importance of African and Afro-Brazilian culture and religion.` -Wikipedia 

I was in the streets of the Black neighborhood of Liberdade located in Salvador as the traditional start of their 2023 Carnaval procession.  To stand in the very neighborhood of Liberdade, to witness this, thousands of beautiful Black people in the street, marching, dancing, singing, having a good and respectful time. Policia Militar (Police) lined the street as well, some taking selfies documenting their attendance at the event. And yes, there were white folks scattered in there marching, singing and dancing in there as well...

At one point, I turned to my wife and said, I always thought Wakanda was a fictional place in the comics...I really think this is it!  She laughed. This is the way of life in Salvador. I saw young children riding on the shoulders of their fathers above the crowd. They are born into this. The closest I can think of in African American experience was the Million Man March. However, the drums, the singing, the sheer amount of Black people enjoying the moment, no strife, no conflict, no harm...inspired to move forward by the empowering words of the music transcends anything I have experienced. 

Thunder of the Afro Brazilian Drums.

By Howard W. Tucker

Rhythmic, rolling and rumbling of the surdos. 

Powerful, deep base.

Shakes the very ground.  

Drums summon an ancient energy. 

Bodies move independently.

Deeply emotional and moving. 

Awakening your spirit. 

Vibrations of the ancestors pass. 

Elevating your consciousness. 

Expanding your senses. 

Becoming a unified voice. 

Cantors sing at a high pitch.

Above the thunder of the drums. 

A call for resistance. 

A call for history. 

A call for honor. 

A call for freedom. 

Respect for our black identity. 

This is Ilê Aiyê. 

Thank you for reading my travel blog. My name is Howard W. Tucker. I am honored to be your guide to Bahia, Brazil. I have traveled to Bahia for 10 years. I am currently a resident of Brazil, living in Bahia with my wife and family.  As my travel companion, I will be introducing you to sights, sounds, people and culture of this incredibly amazing and diverse country.  I welcome your thoughts and suggestions about places we can both explore so please feel free to contact me at htvision4edu@gmail.com