The Bahia Art of Churrasco

Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

One thing I know, its BBQ. I spent many years in Philly as a backyard warrior, grilling and smoking to the point my neighbors would threaten to call the fire department. Sure, until they had a taste of my BBQ. I traveled and tasted BBQ in Memphis, St. Louis, Austin, Atlanta, Savanna, North & South Carolina and points in-between.  I perfected my technique and BBQ sauce and placed 2nd out of 22 armature & professional teams in the Gary Maddox Smoke Off in Philly.  When it comes BBQ, trust me. 

You can count on in Brazil, someone is BBQing beef, chicken, pork, goat, or lamb. Churrasco is a way of life. There is a rich history and a cultural tradition in farming and raising livestock. There are two different names for what we know in the US as cowboys. Gaúcho is the name of the cowboys in the Southern region of Brazil a place called Rio Grande do Sol. (below)

                                        Photo credit. VisitBrazil.net

Vaqueiro is the name of the cowboys in the state of Bahia and the Northeast region of Brazil. Vaqueiros (below) dress very different than the Gaúchos above.

     Photo credit. Argosfoto.com.br 

    Photo credit.Espersaosergipiana.com.br

The Origins of the Vaqueiro. 

According to Wikipedia, In the Northeast of Brazil, cattle raising came under the government of Tomé de Sousa during the colonial period, first in Salvador, Bahia. Until the seventeenth century cattle were raised within the sugar cane mills themselves, but extensive cattle ranching soon developed and cattle raised loose began to multiply and destroy sugarcane plantations, which makes the Portuguese crown decide in the eighteenth century to prohibit cattle breeding less than 70 kilometers from the coast. From the imposition of this legislation that the process of internalization of the cattle begins to take shape towards the Agreste and Sertão northeast, which culminates in the creation of farms managed by cowboys, who were usually Indians and mestizos. -Wikipeadia 

Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

Today there is huge popularity of the Brazilian country music. You will hear it everywhere in Bahia. 

For an example, click the Rai Saia Rodada link below and listen. 

Rai Saia Rodada

Also, with the growth of Brazilian steakhouses and Brazilian novelas (soap operas), performers and musicians have adopted the style of the Gaúchos.  I found a store in Salvador that sells everything you would need to ride a horse and the outfit. Yes. Riding horses are a common sight in the City of Salvador and definitely in the surrounding rural areas. 

    Photo credit. Howard Tucker                                            Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

Where there are cowboys there are steer, so let's talk the about the beef.  If you prefer your meat frozen and wrapped in plastic, there are supermercados (supermarkets) which are very much like the supermarkets in the US. However, meat (carne) shops are more common and convenient in Bahia. You get to know your local butcher, pick a fresh cut of meat hanging on a hook in the window. Brazilians prefer thin slices instead of thick steaks.

    Photo credit. Cleonice Da Fonseca-Tucker 

If you really want a fresh critter that was walking around, mooing, or clucking or oinking or making weird noises, you go to the feira. (market) The feira is a very large farmers' market with many vendors selling everything. Fresh beef is to the Brazilians like sushi is to the Japanese. Picanha is well known, popular and the most expensive steak cut. #16 on the beef chart. (below) I find File mignon and Prime rib (file especial) actually costs much less than picanha. Beef ribs are called costela. If you ever have an opportunity to order them in a Brazilian steakhouse, I highly recommend it!

A specialty cut we don't have in the US is called cumpim #5 on the chart. It is the hump of the steer. The hump did you say? Now, before you start clutching your pearls, I eat it. It is flavorful, tender and addictively good as churrasco. Brazilian livestock are naturally fed grass and grains. The flavor of all meats and chicken is bold and has more fat content. It tastes amazing! 

Below is a poster from a churrasco festival at our mall. The closest example in the States is a Southern bourbon & BBQ festival in Maryland, thousands of people, great food, good music with tons of BBQ and smoke. 

  

 

Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

On to cooking...Brazilian churrasco is very fast and high heat close to the meat, whereas true American BBQ is smoked on low, indirect heat for many hours. Hear the fire sizzle on the video...

In tropical heat, standing near a fire for any extended period of time, is not a good idea. Plus, the more time you spend cooking over the fire, the less time you can spend on the beach or in the pool.  The Brazilians say, come on Americano get your priorities straight!   The meat is salted and placed on the fire. No dry rub. No brine. No overnight prep, just quality meat, fire and salt. 

Once cooked, the host cuts it into bite size pieces and serve to guests. At first, I thought, why cut my meat for me...what are we? Children? Just give me a big steak or piece of chicken. I'm a brother from Philly.  We stake our claim on the biggest piece. The Brazilians respond, Americano calm down. We cut and share small pieces to make the churrasco last a very long time. At home this is more than a meal, it is a daylong event.  My Brother-in-Law even made for me a tutorial video slicing the churrasco.  

                            Photo Credit. Howard Tucker 

The results are fantastic!  The freshness of the meat provides the fullness of flavor. The Brazilians believe this is the best way to enjoy churrasco.  An example of Bahia home style churrasco with chicken, steak and sausage with Fejao (beans), rice and farofa. 

                                        Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

There are hundreds of Churrascarias (Brazilian BBQ Restaurants) in Bahia. We splurge at steakhouses and enjoy fancy side dishes; however, the preparation of the churrasco is the same...fire & salt. 

Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

Photo credit. Howard Tucker 

Well folks, those are the three important elements of socializing, making friends in Bahia, enjoying the praia, drinking cerveja and making charrasco!

Thank you for reading my travel blog. My name is Howard W. Tucker. I am honored to be your guide to Bahia, Brazil. I have traveled to Bahia for 10 years. I am currently a resident of Brazil, living in Bahia with my wife and family.  As my travel companion, I will be introducing you to sights, sounds, people and culture of this incredibly amazing and diverse country.  

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions about places we can both explore so please feel free to contact me at htvision4edu@gmail.com