Afro Brazilian Folkloric

I am fascinated by places of worship built by the faithful to express their devotion. For a time, I worked at a Neighborhood Interfaith Movement in Philadelphia. A collaboration of many faiths to support a common agenda for preschool children and seniors. The faith leaders rotated their meetings at various temples, mosques, churches, synagogues so the faith leaders could share in each other's scared places. I was at first nervous to be in places that normally I wouldn't have traveled. However, this experience opened my eyes to the beauty of the diverse scared places and their cultures. I am not here to judge someone's faith nor take sides in a religious discourse. I learned every faith community has its own culture.  This is my lens as I travel. I am intrigued by the African and indigenous spiritual and cultural influences in Bahia. 

The Afro Brazilian religion of Candomblé evolved from enslaved Africans from various regions of West Africa secretly keeping their African faith traditions while publicly participating as Roman Catholics for the Portugues.  Many cultural aspects of Bahia have direct ties or origins in Candomblé.  As Candomblé evolved the early houses became famous as foreigners became curious to visit.   

"Like the Hindu deities of India, orixás in Afro-Brazilian Candomblé are recognized as having several different “qualities” or manifestations, often of different ages, and each representing a slightly different variation on the general theme. For example, there are forms of the river deity Oxûm that represent the more flirtatious and beauty-conscious elements of her personality, other forms that represent her warrior strength, and still others that emphasize her wisdom and divining abilities – although all Oxûms share the essential energy of flowing water, creativity, inspiration." - Rachel Elizabeth Harding,Phd 

"The Caboclo candomblé is an additional division that specifically and extensively cultivates Amerindian ancestral spirits in addition to those of African origin. It is a more recent development, dating from the early twentieth century and prominently incorporates Brazilian national symbols such as the country's flag, its green and yellow colors, and the use of Portuguese as the language of ceremony." - Rachel Elizabeth Harding,Phd 

"The City of Women" written by Ruth Landes in the 1930's it gives great insight into the everyday life of Afro Brazilians and her observations of Candomblé. It is a portrait of that time and describes the many aspects of living in Bahia. I found her accounts compelling and thoughtful.  

I knew I could not study Bahia as I would an art gallery nor as I could study certain Indian tribes on our reservations where it is possible to hire individuals to sit in a chair for months at a time and tell about themselves. I should have to persuade the Bahians to take me into their life. I should have to force my way into the flow and become part of it. To study the people, I should have to live with them, and I should have to try assiduously to make them like me. 

- Ruth Landes 

When I give tours, I find interesting when a tourist says they want to go a house of Candomblé. I ask, do you know what it is? What does it mean? They usually don't know nor have a reference. I say it is like you want to attend a service at the Vatican in Rome. Folks, Bahia is the epicenter for Candomblé. They don't explain to you what is going on and it can be very overwhelming. 

I remember the first time I visited a house of Candomblé for a party. A party is an open ceremony where one can see the Orishas dance. I was amazed at the ornate and beautiful Orisha clothing, high energy drumming and dances. At this particular house, they practiced the traditional blending of Roman Catholic, and African. I recognized many statues of Catholic saints and African Orishas and I even saw a statue of Jesus. 

However, each Candomblé house is very different, I visited "Ile Axe Ogun Osim Imole" This house is African focused, open and colorful. 

My good friend Dr. Kenneth Dossar, is a retired professor from Temple University who has visited, studied and researched Afro Brazilian spiritual traditions in Bahia for 30 years. He is widely considered an expert on the subject. He gives guided tours of Bahia spiritual places and festivals. Dr. Dossar came to visit me in Arembepe Bahia seen below.  Here is his website for more information on his tours. Home Brazil tours | African culture group travel to Salvador Bahia (mandinga-culture.org)  

If this is your first time in Bahia, before diving headfirst, I suggest going Afro Brazilian Folkloric performance. Bale Folclorico da Bahia is an internationally recognized dance and percussion group famous for its artistic portrayal of Candomblé Orishas. This is excellent educational entertainment. The show is located in Salvador's Pelorinho with nightly performances. This is their website. Balé Folclórico da Bahia (balefolcloricodabahia.com.br) It is full of fantastic content and fully explains the various dance forms as well as the histories of the dances. At the show there is no narration in Portugues nor English.  A little homework before attending will enhance your appreciation of the richness of the live presentation. 

In Salvador, I attended a performance of a new Afro Brazilian folkloric group called Grupo Bahia Axe.  I give below a couple of video clips of their performance. Here is Instagram link for more information. Grupo Bahia Axé (@grupobahiaaxe) • Instagram photos and videos  

(Samba Afro) 

(Baile de Iemanja) 

(Oshun - Goddess of the Rivers) 

To me, Spiritual & Cultural Tourism is an important aspect of understanding and appreciating Bahia. The complexity of the history, the interconnected cultural fabric of food and music is very apparent when you take time to study.  Religion is very much in the forefront in Bahia. In the Salvador Luís Eduardo Magalhães airport you can purchase mementos to your experiences on your way home. Well, living in Bahia this is our everyday.  The statue in colorful red is Nossa Senhora. She is Mary mother of Jesus and patron saint of Brazil. Next to her in blue is Yemoja in the Goddess of the Seas. You will see them both very often in Salvador.  

Thank you for reading my travel blog. My name is Howard W. Tucker. I am honored to be your guide to Bahia, Brazil. I have traveled to Bahia for 10 years. I am currently a resident of Brazil, living in Bahia with my wife and family.  As my travel companion, I will be introducing you to sights, sounds, people and culture of this incredibly amazing and diverse country.  

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions about places we can both explore so please feel free to contact me at htvision4edu@gmail.com