The Procession of Bonfim

It is February in Salvador, and the sun is blazing hot. You are walking with the studier and younger members of your family on a concrete street and between earth clay buildings which radiate the heat from all directions. Sweat is dripping everywhere on your white shirt. You gave up being pristine clean in all whites for the ceremonies after the first two blocks. Your broad rim straw hat was a smart purchase. At least it shields some of the sun. Every few blocks, you say you weren't born to this environment.  However, this is a mini pilgrimage, all the sweat and your efforts given as offering to your Lord.  It is so little to sacrifice in the heat in comparison you say to yourself. You are going to walk in the procession of Bonfim. 

You finally arrive at the point on the main street to watch the procession. Noticing the seniors, who are not normally patrons of the sidewalk bars, have taken over every seat. As in most events in Salvador, there are contrasting elements. Here as well, the secular and the sacred are very much intertwined. This is another nexus point where the two meet to acknowledge each other as you see the faithful seniors with beer in their hands, drinking in anticipation of seeing the statue of their Lord pass by.  The crowd in the street, the onlookers, the Catholics, the merchants, the hustlers, the musicians, the members of Candomblé, the beer sellers, the hat sellers, the balloons sellers, the flower sellers, the joyful Afro Brazilians and the Europeans blushed rose pink by the hot kiss of the Salvador sun, all to witness this event in their own way. 

And then, the sidewalk chatter begins to lessen. Trumpets blast notes of announcement. The Seniors begin to rise, their chatter noise becomes still. Men carrying the statue of Senhor Bonfim, adorned with flowers and Brazilian and Bahia flags, on their shoulders comes into your view. The pop music at the bar is immediately replaced by a Catholic hymn. The seniors sing and raise their hands to greet their Lord, for they have waited all morning to see Him. Actually, they waited two years, the pandemic took away this time. This procession is so sweet for them having survived to see it. They sing in Portugues. Cross themselves a few times and you cross yourself following their lead, then procession continues. 

You and your family then become part of the procession. Falling in the behind the statue, not as close as you would hope because for the immense amount of people following. The momentary solemness gives way to an open street party. The further way from the statue, the more the secular has its sway. How strange you think, is this a pilgrimage? As you see for some yes, for the majority, it is a neighborhood gathering, to meet old friends, to see each other, greet and catch up. Grateful hugs and kind words are exchanged. You realize once again; Bahia finds joy in everything. 

Thank you for reading my travel blog. My name is Howard W. Tucker. I am honored to be your guide to Bahia, Brazil. I have traveled to Bahia for 10 years. I am currently a resident of Brazil, living in Bahia with my wife and family.  As my travel companion, I will be introducing you to sights, sounds, people and culture of this incredibly amazing and diverse country.  

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions about places we can both explore so please feel free to contact me at htvision4edu@gmail.com