Living In Bahia - Dannemann
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| Dr. Kenneth Dossar enjoys our visit to Dannemann. Photo by Howard Tucker |
Driving through the Bahian countryside, through small towns steeped in history, locked in time like a mosquito in amber, the DNA of Bahia is well preserved. Life is as it was and as it will be. Little vending stands made of wood and tree branches dot the side of the road in the town of Santo Amaro, Bahia. Selling to whoever stops, fresh fruit, veggies and palm oil. We slow down at each one to search for a local pimenta from the region. Full of flavor and a smoldering heat that will burn a hole into your soul.
Agriculture reigns here. The steep majestic hills jut out randomly with green pastures as cattle roam. Bamboo farms with fields vast and wide, swaying branches in the Bahian breeze. Never seen so many shades of green in one place. Onward we roll through the hills and valleys. Headed toward those magical towns called Cachoeira and São Felix. We descend from a high hill peak down, down, down so much so the gears automatically bear on the downshift…
The tops of roofed houses appear, then a sky-blue arch welcomes us to Cachoeira which means "waterfall" as we pass the entrance this mystical town. Today is market day. The hustle and bustle of selling is in full swing.
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| Vendor in Cachoeira. Photo by Howard Tucker |
I know these cobblestone streets having traveled here a few times. Each turn down a narrow passageway filled with anticipation.
I feel connected to this town. Can't explain it and frankly I don't want to know. The further you go down that rabbit hole the further you leave all that you know. My aim is to keep it simple, don't over analyze and enjoy each moment.
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| Dr. Leslie Etienne (left) Dr. Kenneth Dossar (middle) with the son of local artist. Photo by Howard Tucker |
I'm here on another mission. My annual trek to the cigar factory called Dannemann. I know the history of our Afro Brazilian cousins who endured forced labor and toil. Like our stories in the United States, they too overcame their condition. We share this bond. Today, I seek the tobacco, the taste and smell of cured leaves. The finest craft perfected "charuto" in Portuguese which we call a cigar.
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
A few years ago, I was introduced to the world of cigars by several friends. Don't worry. I don't smoke often, however they taught me enough to smoke well. It should taste like the earth. Terra. In Bahia, you are surrounded by the fertile earth. Some folks think it's the beach that defines Bahia, on the other hand, venture inside the state on the slopes of these hills and you know there is so much more. The earth is rolling to embrace the sea.
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
Tobacco in Bahia has a complexity much like wine. Well, I keep saying that to myself as we cross a bridge from the 1800's over an expansive river. Now it gets serious. Laughter turns to anxiety. Lighthearted banter to nervous questions of structural integrity. Rickety metal plates slap loudly underneath my car with each movement forward, yet I persist. Undaunted and determined, the goal is within reach, fortunately crossing the bridge is only 5 mins in duration. São Felix!
Finally, the Dannemann factory!
Photo by Howard Tucker
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
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| Photo by Howard Tucker |
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