Living In Bahia - Santo Antonio, Salvador

 

Imagine my surprise receiving a call from my St. Joseph's University college alum & friend, John Christmas, Esq. Hey Howard, its John. I will be in Salvador, Bahia in a few days. I heard you are living in Brazil. Wow. A random phone call. I didn't pick up at first because caller ID said City of Philadelphia. Wait a minute, the PHL knows I am here? Well, I keep posting these flipping travel articles on social media, eventually, they would find me. John found me through a conversation with a mutual friend of ours.

This was John´s first visit to Salvador, traveling with his long-time law school friend Rev. Bill Mathis. In a conversation with both, I learned Bill frequently vacationed in Salvador in the tourist neighborhood called Barra. Bill enjoyed Barra.  He was well versed in the attractions of Salvador and knew many of the locals in Barra. 

John Christmas, Esq. & Rev. William Mathis Photo by Howard Tucker 

My mind raced as we spoke. I wanted to show them something exceptional. See, I am not a typical tour guide. There are hundreds of them in Salvador, waiting by the cruise ships with city maps in hand, waving to passengers as they disembark. If you want to see fountains, museums and statues of ancient dead people, well I have a colleague who knows all the facts.

Moreso, I am a Bahia lifestyle guide. I customize your experience, such as upscale restaurants, live music, festivals, rural natural wonders and tranquil beaches where the local Brazilians hang out. We talk, I gather what you like to do and then take you to the Brazilian spots. More importantly, I show how we live in Bahia.

Hey Bill, have you ever visited the Santo Antonio neighborhood in Salvador? No. Fantastic! I will take you there for lunch! 

The colorful buildings of Santo Antonio, Salvador. Photo by Howard Tucker 

As with large cities, Salvador has really cool hidden pockets that the locals go. My wife Cleonice is a native of Salvador and we explore many (barrios) neighborhoods. Santo Antonio has a rich history with many lifelong residents. It is vibrantly coming back to life! Santo Antonio is adjacent to the very popular tourist mecca of the Pelourinho. There is a very steep hill that separates the two areas, walking up that hill is not for the faint of heart. However, traverse it and you will be rewarded with a grand view, excellent restaurants and boutique pousadas!  

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

The restaurants and bars in Santo Antonio are converted residential houses. Small, intimate, each have a breath-taking view of the Bay of Salvador. Ok, I have a confession. I've dined at the Poro restaurant a few times. A fantastic place for conversation. No rush. Plates are made to order, plus Brazilians love to talk, so everything takes time. The restaurant is beautiful with beautiful people, who is in a rush? Relax Americano. Chill.

I wanted to post all the amazing food we ordered, but we ate it! It is rare to find places where the food is so flipping good you dig in before thinking of snapping pics...well, Poro is one of them.

My I present, the drinks and appetizers. I took my time with these tasty morsels. 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Some places you travel in the world require a personal soundtrack. As you walk, taking in the sights, you can hear the beat and melody. Your heartbeat becomes in sync with Salvador which has an underlying rhythm of its own, it all just flows...

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Now, back to John and Bill´s adventure. Bill was impressed. John was totally amazed. Actually, I think he was suffering from sensory overload, like most first timers to Bahia. He loved the food. He kept saying; OMG! This is good! The air was comfortably warm with a sea breeze. The colors, the live plants, all of it vibrant. Then of course there are the Bahia locals. You will find couples and large family groups. Brazilians love family outings. It is common to see 10 - 20 as one party in restaurants, shopping malls and on the beaches.

Photo by Howard Tucker 

After lunch, I dropped Bill off for an appointment and drove John to visit a couple of the rural seaside communities 50 kms north of the Salvador called the Litoral Norte. Arembepe, Barra do Jaucipe and Praia do Forte, these ocean communities are my backyard. My happy places. Doesn't have the hustle of the big city of Salvador. My barrio, Arembepe is laid back. The locals tell me at one time it was a hippie commune in the 60s. Jimmie Hendrex, Janis Joplin and the Rollings Stones all hung out or should I say dropped off the grid. Today, it is a busy fishing town that hasn't lost its rustic appeal. 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

At one point, as John surveyed the landscape, he said to me; now I get it. This is Bahia. I can't wait to bring my wife here and show her this. 

Photo by Howard Tucker 

Thank you for reading my article. I am honored to be your guide to Bahia, Brazil. As my travel companion, I will be introducing you to sights, sounds, people and culture of this incredibly amazing and diverse country. 

Abraços,

Howard